How to Remove Built-in Microwave with Trim Kit (Super Easy!)

When my sister moved into her new house last month, the kitchen looked perfect… except for that ugly old built-in microwave stuck inside the cabinet with a fancy trim kit. She wanted to swap it for a sleek new one, but the idea of breaking the cabinet or scratching the countertop scared her to death. Sound familiar? Removing a built-in microwave with trim kit is actually way simpler than it looks — and today I’ll show you exactly how to do it without damage or drama.

Key Takeaways
Turn off power at the breaker, unplug the microwave from inside the cabinet above, remove the trim kit screws hidden behind the plastic frame or under the top lip, gently pry the trim kit with plastic tools, slide the microwave forward on its rails, lift it straight up off the mounting bolts, and carry it out with a friend. Takes 15-25 minutes total once you know where everything hides.

Gather Your Tools and Stay Safe First

Before you touch anything, grab the right stuff so you don’t end up with scratched cabinets or a smashed microwave. You only need a Phillips screwdriver, a flat-head screwdriver, plastic pry tools (the auto trim removal kit from Amazon works perfect), painter’s tape, and a buddy to help lift. Optional: wrap an old metal key or butter knife with painter’s tape if you don’t have plastic tools — it saves your trim from scratches 100%.

Start by flipping the breaker for the kitchen microwave. Even if it’s unplugged later, you never want to mess with electricity while your hands are inside cabinets. Next, clear everything off the counter and put a thick blanket or cardboard down — this catches the microwave if it slips and protects your floors. Tape the microwave door shut with painter’s tape so it doesn’t swing open mid-lift.

People always forget the power part and get a little shock or panic when the light turns on. Doing these two safety steps first makes the whole job feel chill instead of stressful. My neighbor skipped the blanket once and dropped a 50-pound unit right on his granite — $800 lesson he still talks about.

• Turn breaker off and verify with the microwave light
• Lay down blanket/cardboard for protection
• Tape door closed and gather plastic pry tools
• Have a helper ready before you start

Find and Unplug the Power Cord Inside the Cabinet

Open the cabinet directly above the microwave — that’s where the plug lives 99% of the time. You’ll see a regular three-prong plug going into an outlet mounted on the cabinet wall or ceiling. Reach in, grab the plug (not the cord), and pull it straight out. Some newer installs have the cord zip-tied — just snip the tie with scissors.

While you’re up there, look for any grounding wire or small bracket screwed to the cabinet. A few brands (looking at you, GE Profile) add an extra grounding screw for earthquakes. Remove that screw and set it aside in a little bowl so nothing gets lost.

This step is sneaky because most YouTube videos completely skip showing the top cabinet. My first time I spent 20 minutes looking behind the microwave like an idiot until my dad pointed up. Once the plug is free, you’re officially safe to move forward.

• Always unplug from the cabinet above, not behind
• Check for zip-ties or extra grounding screws
• Keep small screws in a bowl or magnetic tray
• Double-check power is dead at the control panel

Locate Every Hidden Trim Kit Screw (They Love to Hide)

The trim kit is that metal or plastic frame that makes the microwave look built-in and flush. Manufacturers hide the screws in the weirdest spots so you don’t see them from the front. Common hiding places: pull the thin plastic strip on the top edge of the trim (it pops forward), look inside the microwave door gap on both sides, or check under the bottom lip with a flashlight.

Most kits use 4-8 small screws total. Turn them counterclockwise with your Phillips screwdriver and drop them in your bowl. If a screw feels stuck, add a drop of household oil, wait two minutes, then try again — beats stripping it.

I once helped a friend who swore her microwave had no screws. We found them behind a fake plastic cover that looked like part of the design. Ten seconds with a plastic pry tool and pop — four screws staring at us. Knowing these tricks saves hours of frustration.

• Top plastic lip usually hides 2-4 screws
• Side gaps and bottom edge are next most common
• Gently pop decorative covers with plastic tool
• Oil stubborn screws instead of forcing them

Pry the Trim Kit Off Without Breaking Anything

Now that all screws are out, the trim kit is only held by clips or double-sided tape. Slide your plastic pry tool (or taped metal key) between the trim and the cabinet — start at the top corner. Wiggle gently and work your way around. You’ll hear little pops as the clips release. Never yank hard; patience wins here.

If your kit has the metal surround type (common with Sharp and Panasonic), it might have small tabs on the sides. Push those tabs in while pulling the frame forward. Go slow — the goal is zero scratches on your cabinets.

Some trim kits are glued with scary-strong 3M tape. Warm the edge with a hair dryer on low for 30 seconds and the tape softens like magic. My cousin used this trick on her 15-year-old Bosch and the frame came off perfectly clean.

• Start prying at top corners with plastic tools
• Work clockwise, listen for clip pops
• Hair-dryer trick melts old tape instantly
• Pull straight forward, never sideways

Slide the Microwave Forward and Lift It Off the Bolts

Under the microwave you’ll see a metal mounting plate screwed to the wall with three or four big bolts sticking out. The microwave hangs on those bolts like a giant coat hook. From the front, gently push the microwave back an inch, then pull forward — it should slide on little rails or plastic wheels.

Once the back is clear of the wall plate, lift straight up about two inches to clear the bolts, then tilt the top toward you and pull out. This is where your helper earns dinner — these things weigh 45-70 pounds and feel awkward alone.

If it feels stuck, double-check you removed the two small screws at the bottom front (some models hide them under rubber plugs). Also make sure the turntable and roller ring are out — they add weight and can jam.

• Push back first, then pull forward to clear wall plate
• Lift straight up 2 inches, then tilt and remove
• Remove turntable glass and roller first
• Always use two people for the lift

Patch the Hole and Get Ready for the New One

Look at that giant hole — kinda satisfying, right? If you’re installing a new microwave with the same trim kit size, you’re done. Different size? Grab a cabinet filler panel from Home Depot (they cut it free) or order an exact-match trim kit from the new microwave brand.

Vacuum all the dust bunnies that were hiding back there for ten years. Check the wall mounting plate — if it’s rusty or bent, swap it for the new one that came with your replacement microwave. Takes five minutes and makes everything solid.

Last thing: take a victory picture. You just saved $200-400 in installation fees and proved you’re officially a kitchen ninja.

• Vacuum years of hidden dust (you’ll thank me)
• Reuse old plate only if it’s perfect
• Measure twice before buying new trim kit
• Celebrate — you did it!

Final Thoughts

Removing a built-in microwave with trim kit is one of those jobs that looks scary until you do it once — then you laugh at how easy it actually is. With plastic tools, a helper, and 20-30 minutes, you can pull it off without a single scratch. Next time your microwave dies or you just want a upgrade, you already know exactly what to do. Go be the hero of your kitchen!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is it safe to remove a built-in microwave myself?

Totally safe if you kill the power first and have a friend help lift. The heaviest part is just the weight — nothing complicated electrically once it’s unplugged from the cabinet above. Thousands of homeowners do this every weekend without issues. Just follow the breaker rule and you’re golden.

Can I reuse the old trim kit on a new microwave?

Sometimes yes, but only if the new microwave is the exact same size and from the same brand family. Most of the time the mounting holes and frame dimensions change. Measure the rough opening and compare to the new model specs — easier and cheaper to buy the new matching trim kit.

Do I need to unscrew the wall mounting plate?

Only if the new microwave comes with its own plate (most do) or if the old one is rusted. Otherwise leave it — it’s already perfectly level and strong. Removing it means patching bigger holes and re-leveling everything. I reuse them 9 times out of 10.

Can the microwave fall while I’m removing the trim kit?

No way — the microwave hangs on big bolts at the back, not held by the trim. Even with every trim screw out, it stays rock-solid until you physically lift it off those bolts. The trim is just cosmetic. Relax and pry away.

Is it okay to lay the microwave on its side after removal?

Never lay it on its side or front — the coolant in the magnetron can leak and ruin it. Always keep it upright or on its back with the door facing up. If you’re storing it for a few days, stand it exactly like it sat in the cabinet.

Do I have to remove the cabinet to get it out?

Almost never. 99% of installations let you slide it straight forward into the kitchen. Only super-tight over-the-range setups with zero clearance need cabinet doors removed first — and even then it’s just the two doors above, five minutes max.

Can one person do the whole job alone?

You can do everything except the final lift. Trying to muscle 60 pounds out by yourself usually ends with scratched counters or a sore back. Everything up to sliding it forward is solo-friendly, but recruit a friend (or neighbor with pizza) for the last two minutes.

Do I need to disconnect any vent ducts?

Only if your model vents to the outside (most just recirculate). Look for a rectangular metal duct on top — two sheet-metal screws and it lifts right off. Takes 30 seconds. If there’s no duct, you’re already done.