How to Remove a Built-In Microwave Without Breaking Anything!

When my sister moved into her new house last month, she opened the kitchen cabinet and almost dropped her coffee — the old built-in microwave was literally hanging by one screw and making a scary grinding noise every time the door opened. She panicked, called three appliance guys who quoted $250–$400 just to “take it out,” and then I showed up with a screwdriver and 45 minutes later it was sitting safely on the counter. Turns out removing a built-in (over-the-range or cabinet-mounted) microwave is crazy simple if you know the hidden tricks.

Key Takeaways
Turn off power at the breaker, unplug the microwave from the top outlet inside the cabinet above, remove the two or three big bolts holding it to the cabinet bottom, unscrew the wall bracket at the back, get a friend to hold the front while you tilt and slide it forward off the bracket, lower it gently onto a table or cardboard on the stove, then detach the vent if needed.

Find and Kill the Power Before You Touch Anything

Most people skip this part and end up with sparks flying or a fried hand. Built-in microwaves are hard-wired or have a plug hidden in the cabinet directly above. Open that cabinet, push aside the fake panel or plate (sometimes it’s just held by two screws), and you’ll see the cord. Unplug it first — wiggle it straight back, don’t yank sideways. Then go to your breaker box and flip the kitchen appliance or microwave breaker off just to be 200% safe.

I always stick a piece of tape on the plug with “UNPLUGGED” written on it so nobody accidentally plugs it back in while I’m halfway under the thing. If your microwave is hard-wired (rare these days), you’ll see wires with wire nuts — in that case turn the breaker off and leave the wires alone unless you’re comfortable with electrical work.

One extra trick: take a quick phone picture of how the cord is routed before you pull it out. When you install the new one you’ll thank yourself for that photo.

• Always unplug from inside the upper cabinet first
• Turn breaker off even after unplugging
• Label the plug so nobody reconnects it by mistake
• Snap a photo of the cord path

Gather the Right Tools So You Don’t Scratch Your Cabinets

You need almost nothing fancy: a cordless drill or regular Phillips screwdriver, a friend (seriously, don’t skip this), a thick blanket or cardboard to protect your stovetop, and plastic pry tools (the $6 set from Amazon). If you only have a metal putty knife, wrap the edge in painter’s tape so it doesn’t gouge the paint when you pop trim pieces.

Keep a small bowl or magnetic tray for screws — those mounting bolts are long and love to roll under the fridge the second you drop them. I also bring a headlamp because the inside of that upper cabinet is darker than a movie theater.

People always ask if they need a special microwave lift tool. Nope. Two normal humans can lift a 60-pound microwave just fine if you do it together and don’t rush.

• Plastic pry tools beat metal every time
• Tape any metal tool edges
• Use a magnetic tray for screws
• Headlamp makes life 100× easier

Empty It Completely and Remove the Cooking Tray

Take out the glass turntable, roller ring, and any metal racks. If you leave them inside, they’ll bang around and possibly crack the new stove when you lower the microwave. I once forgot the roller ring and it shot across the kitchen like a hockey puck — lesson learned.

While you’re in there, give the inside a quick wipe with a damp cloth. Old grease drips out when you tilt the unit and nobody wants that on their new stovetop.

This is also the perfect moment to check for mouse droppings or bugs (yes, it happens more than you think). If you see anything gross, vacuum it out before the microwave comes down.

• Remove glass plate and roller first thing
• Wipe inside to avoid grease drips
• Check for pests while you have easy access

Loosen the Mounting Bolts Under the Cabinet

Open the microwave door, look up at the bottom of the cabinet above, and you’ll see two or sometimes three fat bolts going straight up into the cabinet floor. These are usually 3–4 inches long. Turn them counterclockwise with your drill or screwdriver. They might feel stuck at first — that’s normal, just keep steady pressure.

Most of the time only the front two bolts actually hold the weight; the back is on a wall bracket. Once the front bolts are out or almost out, leave them hanging by one thread so the microwave doesn’t drop suddenly.

Tell your helper to put both hands on the sides of the microwave and take the weight. Say “I got it” out loud when they’re ready — communication prevents disasters.

• Two or three long bolts under the cabinet
• Leave them hanging by one thread until your helper is ready
• Helper supports from the front, you work from behind

Detach the Rear Wall Bracket Like a Pro

Here’s the part that scares everyone. The microwave hangs on a metal bracket screwed into the wall studs. After the top bolts are loose, gently tilt the front of the microwave down about 15 degrees. Your helper keeps it steady while you reach behind and feel for the bracket lip. Lift the whole unit straight up 1–2 inches, then pull forward. It slides right off.

If it feels stuck, you probably still have one top bolt too tight or the vent is caught (next section covers that). Wiggle side to side gently — never force it.

Once it’s free, walk it forward and lower onto the thick blanket or cardboard you put on the stove. High-five your helper because the hard part is done.

• Tilt front down 15 degrees
• Lift straight up, then forward
• Gentle side-to-side wiggle if stuck
• Lower onto protection on the stove

Disconnect the Vent and Final Cleanup

Some houses vent through the roof, some recycle air back into the kitchen. Either way there’s usually a flexible duct or a metal collar on top. Squeeze the clamp with pliers and slide it back, then twist the duct off. If it’s the recycling type, just pop off the charcoal filter cover — no tools needed.

Check for any leftover grounding wire or small screws holding a trim kit. Remove them now while everything is easy to reach.

Wipe the wall bracket and the cabinet bottom. You’ll be amazed how much dust and grease collected up there in ten years.

• Squeeze vent clamp and twist duct off
• Remove charcoal filter if it’s a recirculating model
• Clean the bracket and cabinet — you’ll never have better access

Final Thoughts

You just saved $200–$400 and 45 minutes of your life. Removing a built-in microwave is honestly easier than assembling IKEA furniture once you know the hidden plug and the tilt-and-lift trick. Do it with a buddy, take your time on the power, and you’ll feel like a kitchen superhero. Now go treat yourself to takeout — you earned it, and you’ve got the perfect empty spot for the new microwave tomorrow!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Is it safe to remove a built-in microwave by myself?

Totally safe if you have one friend to help lift — the microwave only weighs 50–70 pounds but it’s awkward. The real danger is dropping it or forgetting to unplug. Kill the breaker, double-check the plug is out, and you’re golden. I’ve helped five neighbors do this and never had a single problem.

Can I remove it without taking the cabinets apart?

99% of the time, yes. You never touch the actual cabinets — everything is held by those three bolts on the bottom and the wall bracket on the back. The only time you need cabinet work is if someone installed a weird custom trim kit with side screws, which is super rare.

Do I need to unscrew the wall bracket completely?

Nope — leave the wall bracket right where it is. Your new microwave will use the exact same bracket. Just wipe it clean and maybe tighten the screws a tiny bit so it’s ready for the next one.

Can the microwave fall if I remove the wrong screw first?

Only if you ignore the helper and try to do it solo. The front bolts hold most of the weight, so loosen them last. Always keep at least one bolt threaded until your friend has both hands on it and says “got it.”

Is it okay to lay the microwave on its side after removal?

Better to keep it upright or on its back. Laying it on the door can crack the plastic front or bend the hinges. Put it on the thick blanket you used on the stove — keeps it safe until trash day or you sell it.

Do I have to cap the electrical outlet after removal?

Not really — just push the plug back into the cabinet and put the cover plate back on. Tape a note inside that says “microwave plug” so the next person doesn’t freak out wondering where it goes.

Can I reuse the same mounting bracket for a new microwave?

Almost always yes. Measure the bracket holes on your new microwave — if they match (most brands use the same pattern), you’re set. If not, new brackets are $15 and take five minutes to swap.

Do I need to call an electrician to disconnect it?

Only if it’s hard-wired with no plug (very old houses). Modern built-ins have a regular three-prong plug hidden in the cabinet above. Unplug and you’re done — no electrician needed.